Cycling Tour In The Kingdom Of Happiness

Get ready to witness panoramic sights as your flight takes off to transport you to magical Bhutan. First, the scenic Himalayan snow-clad peaks, including Mount Everest! Later, a one-of-a-kind Bhutan introduction as your aeroplane prepares to land at Paro International Airport.

From up above, you can see the beautiful, luxuriant Paro Valley and the crystal clear Pa-chu (Paro) River winding across it. Bhutan architecture makes a grand first impression as the initial views of two prominent dzongs appear.

While getting off the plane, the clean mountain air will be the first to welcome you to the Kingdom of Happiness. Yes, look forward to an incredibly joyful bicycle tour in Bhutan, a carbon-negative country.

Once you’re at the arrival terminal of Paro international airport, just complete the immigration formalities, collect your luggage, and you’re all set. You can also get Bhutan currency in exchange for yours at the airport’s exchange desk.

Your tour guide will be waiting eagerly for you at the exit terminal. He will be your companion all through your Bhutan tour. A short drive of about fifteen minutes along a narrow, curved road will take us to our hotel.  Enjoy your overnight stay in this conventional Bhutanese building having lovely gardens and an exceptionally relaxing ambience. Before dinner, let’s assemble our bikes in order to get ready for our forthcoming trip.

After having a much-needed nutritious breakfast on our first day of riding, we gear up for the adventure. Today, we’ll bike till the point at which the Taktsang hiking trail begins. An uphill hike on a clear cut path will take us to the awe-inspiring Taktsang Lhakhang monastery.

A highly revered Bhutan pilgrimage site, Taktsang Lhakhang clings to a steep cliff at an altitude of 3120 m. It’s more popularly called “The Tiger’s Nest” owing to the belief that Guru Rinpoche, a legendary Buddhist saint, came here, seated on a flying tiger. The myth also says that the enlightened mystic introduced Buddhism to Paro while meditating at this site.

It’s an hour-long ride to the trailhead. Then we trek up the steep footpath for about three to four hours to reach the Taktsang Monastery. Your efforts will be well-rewarded, with views of scenic pines and intermittent fluttering colourful prayer flags all along the trek. The Tiger’s Nest hike is certainly one of the most memorable experiences of trekking in Bhutan.

Once at the monastery site, spend time discovering the monument. You’d certainly want to capture this masterpiece in your camera at different angles. Visit the Taktsang Lhakhang’s four temples well-decorated with Buddha statues and paintings of mystics. Explore the fabulous structure, including Guru Rinpoche’s meditation spot. This sacred cave is presently the lower storey of the monument.

We retrace all the way downhill and pedal our way back to the hotel through an unpaved farm road.

Post breakfast, we begin our bike trip towards Chelela Pass (3988m). It’s Bhutan’s highest motorable point. Initially, as we leave the hotel in Paro, it’s a leisurely, descending ride to the valley. After biking along the lovely landscape dotted with farms and villages, we arrive at the start of the steep ascent to Chelela Pass.

Gear up for our bicycle tour’s first big climb! Discover Bhutan in one of its most pristine forms with your mountain bicycle. As we gain altitude steadily, we’ll be rewarded with breathtaking views of the Bhutanese Himalayas at certain turns. Especially watch out for the snowcapped, divine companion peaks of Jomolhari and Jichu Drake. After cycling nearly 36 kilometres for almost a good five hours, we finally get to Chelela’s prayer flagged tip.

After having some refreshment at the summit and drinking sufficient water, let’s prepare ourselves for a thrilling 20 kilometres descent. We start off, initially pedalling slowly amidst the trees. Then, ten excessively sharp hairpin turns, one after the other, and we’re heading down into the picturesque, remote Haa Valley. Fortunately, these hairpin bends aren’t heavily crowded, so it should be smooth sailing into the valley. Let’s check in to the hotel right near the valley.

Today we set off to Thimphu, the capital of the Happiness Kingdom. We’re going to pedal a whopping 110 kilometres to reach the capital city from Haa. Gear up for a 7-8 hour cycling journey. Luckily, our route is a good, sufficiently levelled, and almost trafficless road.

Initially, it’s an easy, downhill ride of 40 kilometres along the Ha river. We now ride in the southeast direction and then go north to get to Chuzom (2068 metres), the site of the fascinating confluence of Rivers Paro and Thimphu.

A typical representation of romantic Bhutan indeed!

The Chuzombridge is a vital road junction between all the districts in western Bhutan. Let’s halt here for some time and have a good time walking through the traditional wooden bridge. This interesting structure is also an excellent viewpoint of three beautiful monuments, each built differently. You get to see a Tibetan, Nepali, and Bhutanese Chorten all side by side.

From Chuzom, we’ll follow Wangchu (Thimphu) River upstream amid a picturesque mix of paddies and conifers. Then we go through a narrow ravine to enter the Thimphu Valley that widens at the beautiful village of Namseling.

We get the first glance of Thimphu city as we approach the 17th-century SimtokhaDzong. In the city square, you’ll enjoy watching the typical, easygoing Bhutanese style – local folks dressed in their traditional attire and getting on with their business in a relaxed manner.

Once we reach the hotel, freshen up and get ready for a delicious dinner.

It’s a short stay in Thimphu. We now breakfast and get ready for the bike ride to Punakha town through the Dochula Pass (3100 metres). We’ll be pedalling totally for 4-5 hours.

First, we ride for 22 kilometres, gaining a height of 670 metres to get to the Dochula Pass. Your pedalling trip up to this beautiful mountain pass is a unique opportunity to explore Bhutan in one of its most unspoiled forms. Feast your eyes on the lush hillsides covered with deciduous trees on both sides of the road. Won’t you like to stop a while to take photos of rhododendrons and magnolias thriving in the temperate forest?

As we continue our ride through the scenic landscape,  enjoy the sights of lush orange orchards and banana and bamboo plantations growing on the lower hillslopes. Also, watch out for various monkeys and deer that live in this dense forestland. Although a tiring climb to the pass, it’s certainly a refreshing one, with so much spectacle enroute.

Our scenic ride finally gets us to the mesmerisingDochula pass with 108 beautiful stupas and brightly coloured prayer flags. In clear weather, Dochula promises panoramic views of the Himalayan mountains. Indeed, a fantastic spot in beautiful Bhutan to immerse yourselves in nature. Visit the DrukWangyal Lhakhang temple at this site which is a typical Bhutanese fusion of the ancient and present times.

From Dochula, we descend for 1700 metres. After pedalling through dense jungle that extends over a good 50 kilometres, we enter the scenic Punakha Valley.

Finally, we reach our hotel for an overnight stay in Punakha.

Let’s enjoy one full day of sightseeing in this charming town. We’ll ride first to Punakha Dzong, one of the most awe-inspiring specimens ofBhutan architecture. This 17th-century fortress has been the venue of several momentous events in Bhutan’s history, such as the main wedding ceremony of the current king and queen. The six-storeyeddzong with imposing whitewashed walls is also the chief monk body’s winter home.

The ride to Punakha Dzong is no ordinary one. We will bike the world-famous Punakha Suspension Bridge that links the dzong with the remaining Punakha Valley. This 160-metre long, hanging iron bridge built by ThangtongGyalpo, a renowned ancient saint, spans high above the swift river currents. What better way to experience the adrenaline rush of crossing this engineering wonder than on a bicycle?

Situated in a picture-postcard setting of the confluence of two prominent Bhutan rivers, Punakha Dzong is the most beautiful Bhutan dzong. Exploring this regal place with exquisite interiors and a marvellous temple will truly satisfy our souls.

Next, we cycle through beautiful paddies to the 14th-century Chimi Lhakhang Temple. One of the must-visit tourist places in Bhutan, this square-shaped structure with a golden roof has beautifully carved exteriors and the central statue of Drukpa Kunley, a renowned medieval Buddhist monk. The Chimi Lhakhang is believed to grant blessings of fertility, making it an ideal Bhutan pilgrimage spot for childless couples. If we’re lucky, we might be able to witness a ceremony taking place for fulfilling the wish of childbearing.

Another beautiful ride through rice fields, and we’re at the KhamsumYulleyNamgyalChorten entrance. This four-storeyed temple was built in the present era to defend Bhutan against evil forces and encourage peace worldwide. Although belonging to modern times, KhamsumYulleyNamgyal exemplifies traditional Bhutan architecture.

As we tour this beautiful stupa, we can see statues of wrathful and compassionate deities. The more prominent among them is a 15-feet-tall statue of the enraged Vajrakilaya and a golden statue of the serene Sakyamuni Buddha overlooking the spectacular valley.

After experiencing a sensational ride on the Punakha suspension bridge, now it’s time for yet another soul-stirring adventure. Let’s challenge ourselves to beat the swift currents of Bhutan’s great waterways!

How about doing white water rafting in the beautiful Mo Chhu and Pho Chhu? As these rivers flow towards the splendid “Devil’s Gorge”, they offer varying rapids suitable for expert as well as novice rafters.

As we get on our rafts for this superb adventure in the river waters, we can also enjoy Bhutan’s scenic splendour up-close in the ride’s quieter moments.

Now it’s time for a relaxing village tour. We pedal uphill from the main town to Talo and Nobgang villages. A spotless and hygienic Punakha village, Talo has lovely farmhouses with private flower gardens. In addition, TaloDzong offers beautiful views of Punakha Valley.

Let’s proceed to Nobgang, the birthplace of Bhutan’s four queen mothers. Explore the scenic landscape dotted with typical dwellings, tropical orchards, and lush farmlands. How about experiencing the village life hands-on? Let’s visit a farmhouse and take part in some of the routine farming activities.

This way, we get to interact with the locals and understand their daily lives. What’s more, the farmhouse visit is also a fantastic opportunity to learn to make traditional Bhutanese foods like emadatshi (a chilli-cheese stew) and suja (salty butter tea).

Further, we ride to Rinchengang, one of Bhutan’s oldest hamlets. Walk around its artful stone houses that overlook the 17th-century WangduePhodrangDzong.

Post breakfast, we check out of the hotel in Punakha and set off on a full day (8 to 9 hours) biking trip to Gangtey Valley in central Bhutan, via the windy town of Wangdue.

From Wangdue, a relatively flat, 20-kilometre stretch leads to a bridge right after the tiny Tikke village. Next, we’re going to get atop the Black Mountains. This remote, stunning mountain range lies between two rivers and divides Bhutan into its wild east and well-frequented west.

It’s going to be a long climb with an altitude gain of nearly 2000 metres.  Pass by the thin settlements spread out along scenic river valleys and steep paths. After Nobding town, we come across the road junction which will lead us to Gangtey(3000 metres) and the Phobjikha Valley.

This stunning glacial valley of magical Bhutan is full of nature trails. The endangered black crane, endemic to Tibet, has taken a fancy to this iconic landscape and prefers to stay here in winter. In fact, if you come biking here in November, you can witness the celebration of this magnificent bird’s arrival in the courtyard of the famous Gangtey Monastery.

Enjoy your overnight stay in the peaceful surroundings.

Traverse the Black Mountain range at Pele La Pass (3,370 metres), the corridor leading to central Bhutan. Distinguished by a grand monument and a prayer flagged hill, the Pele La pass offers spectacular views of the Bhutanese Himalayas. If the weather’s clear, you’re going to get to feast your eyes on the scintillating and towering Mount Jomolhari and Mount Jichu Drake.

On our 6-hour journey, as we pedal up to the Pele La Pass, langur monkeys can be spotted on this forested section of our route. At Pele La, enjoy the sights of grazing yaks on the side road. From the high pass, we now take a fantastic descent (1530 metres). It’s a downhill ride of almost 60 kilometres to get to Tongsa.

En-route this scenic village, we’ll visit Chendebji, an awe-inspiring chorten fringed by thick greenery. The locals believe that the stupa was built to keep demons at bay. We cross the Nikachhu River on a bridge and enter the Tongsa district. Experience a sensational bike ride at this point where we follow a road carved out of a steep cliff, high above the Tongsa River.

With endless forest cover on our downhill ride, the scenery is a treat to the eyes. The view of the TongsaDzong can be witnessed within the 30 kilometres range. Beware – the final 300 metres to Tongsa town is a climb and not a descent. So, be prepared for it well in advance as you keep going downhill most of the way.

We can spend the afternoon visiting the TongsaDzong. This 17th-century enormous fortress is also one of Bhutan’s largest monasteries with several temples. Having administrative and royal bearing, TongsaDzong has many offices and courtyards.

After checking out of our hotel in Tongsa, we gear up for our next adventure – an exciting, 7-8 hour biking trip to Jakar (2600 metres), the chief town in the scenic Bumthang Valley (an alignment of four mountain valleys). An excellent base for easy Bhutan treks to adjacent monasteries and a significant producer of cheese and apricots, Jakar certainly makes an exciting tourist destination. Also, being a leading trading centre, Jakar contributes significantly to the Bhutan economy.

As we leave Tongsa, we climb up rapidly through consecutive hairpin turns, occasionally taking in views of the Dzong that we left behind. For some time, we pedal amid cultivated fields before re-entering the thick forest.

A 30 kilometre-ride from Tongsa gets us to to the beautiful Yutong La Pass (3400 metres). One of the must-visit tourist places in Bhutan, this foggy, serene pass has a centrally located magnificent stupa and bright-coloured prayer flags. A fantastic photography spot indeed!

Now we need to descend to 2650 metres to enter the Bumthang valley. There’s an ancient, abandoned trade route today in the complete wilderness that opens out in the Valley. In the spirit of adventure, let’s take this backcountry road instead of the well-frequented one.

After an hour-long exciting ride, we reach the roadside at the idyllic Chumey Valley (one of the four valleys that make up Bumthang Valley), famous for weaving finesse. We pass countless shops selling beautifully woven blankets and clothes.

Now there’s a short ascent to the Kiki La Pass (3300 metres). This scenic, forested point offers stunning sights of the Jakar Valley and the 17th-century JakarDzong. Finally, we get around the pass and descend sharply to reach Jakar town.

Jakar has some of the best Bhutan hotels. We’ve carefully selected one of them for your overnight stay.

Today we’re going to explore the incredibly sacred Bumthang Valley. It’s the birthplace of Pema Lingpa, a famous medieval saint and the direct ancestor of the present royal family.

This picturesque valley is full of legends and home to some of Bhutan’s most ancient monasteries and temples. Bumthang indeed makes a perfect choice for a Bhutan pilgrimage tour. By tradition, the Kings of Bhutan are cremated in the Bumthang Valley.

Let’s visit some of the most famous places of worship here, one by one. Kurje Lhakhang, just like the Tiger’s Nest, is dedicated to Guru Rinpoche. The legend has it that the renowned saint overpowered a local devil at this site. One of the temples of this monastery houses 1000 miniature statues of the mystic. Another holds a 10-metre giant statue flanked by the saint’s eight different forms.

We proceed to visit the 7th-century, fabulous Jampel Lhakhang built to subdue an ogress. Inside the main structure, look out for the three stone steps that symbolise the past, present, and new age. This temple has lovely murals of Buddhas and the central figure of Jampa, meaning future Buddha.

Now it’s time to visit JakarDzong that we got a glimpse of yesterday. This majestic Bhutan dzong marks the country’s victory over a Tibetan ruler’s troops. Walk up the stone-paved road that leads to the dzong. Take in breathtaking views of the Chokhor valley (one of the four valleys that make up Bumthang Valley) from the dzong’s front courtyard.

The medieval Tamshing Lhakhang built by Saint Pema Lingpa has a vast collection of paintings that depict the Valley’s traditions and way of life. While exploring the 15th-century Konchogsum Lhakhang, you’ll find the prominent statue of Vairocana, a Dhyani Buddha. In 2010, this temple underwent massive destruction from a butter lamp fire. Consequently, a modern structure was built to envelop its precious remains. You’re sure to find the new building with its bright coloured columns and intricately muralled surfaces exceptionally fascinating.

We end our sightseeing trip with a visit to the picturesque MebarTsho (Burning Lake). This lovely spot holds immense spiritual significance in Bhutan. The myth says that Saint Pema Lingpa retrieved Guru Rinpoche’s hidden religious teachings from the waters of MebarTsho. It’s believed that Pema Lingpa went underwater with an ignited butter lamp and returned to the surface with the hidden treasure, the butter lamp still burning. Hence, the name “The Burning Lake”.  If our visit coincides with an auspicious day, we can witness the locals offering butter lamps at MebarTsho.

We’re now on our way to Ura Valley (3000 metres), the highest valley that makes up Bumthang. During the 6-7 hour biking trip, we’ll be crossing the incredibly steep Shertang La Pass (3565 metres) to get to this scenic countryside. After biking 40 kilometres, we gain an elevation of 900 metres towards Shertang La.

We continue our ride along extensive sheep pastures. Just before reaching Shertang La, there’s a panorama of the Lunana Mountains. We ride downhill through long, curved roads, beautiful meadows, and lush terraced fields to get to Ura village from the pass.

Ura’s traditional dwellings lying against the terraced landscape will take you back in time. Tonight, let’s have a unique Bhutan experience of staying in a local homestay.

Today we’ll enter the wild east. There’s going to be a lot of cycling. A 12-hour ride will take us from Bumthang to Mongar town (1600 metres), a leading producer of lemongrass. We head for this beautiful countryside at the crack of dawn.

We take a short dip towards a bridge and immediately begin our 30-kilometre, steep ascent to Thrumsing La Pass (3800 metres). As we pedal gradually, we have all the time to admire the lush conifers and rhododendrons on both sides of our track.

The Thrumsing La Pass marks our last high altitude climb. This indeed calls for a celebratory toast! After performing this joyful ritual on the scenic pass, we set off on a breathtakingly beautiful descent. With the road plunging 3200 metres from Thrumsing La to the bottom of Mongar Valley at 600 metres, you’re going to enjoy this downhill ride thoroughly. The entire stretch of 85 kilometres is surrounded by dark conifers and a mix of deciduous and coniferous trees.

There’s a change of scenery once we enter the semi-tropical forest belt at approximately 1800 metres. Now we pass through bamboo trees and a variety of rare plants. Unfortunately, given our dizzying descent, it’s nearly impossible to notice our surroundings.

Here comes the most thrilling part of your Bhutan travel experience. A 20-kilometre stretch between Sengor and Namling villages is hewn out of a steep, towering cliffside. With a vertiginous drop below it for nearly the entire way, this ride is incredibly terrifying.

On reaching the small town of Lingmithang, the weather gets much warmer, and it feels like we’ve arrived in a tropical region. After a solid, 5-hour downhill ride, there’s a surprising, final 20-kilometres ascent to Mongar town.

Today, we’ll ride downhill to Trashigang (1100 metres), the largest district of Bhutan, spanning the eastmost corners of the Happiness Kingdom. An erstwhile busy centre for trading with Tibet, Trashigang today connects the east-west highway of Bhutan with India.

The semi-nomadic tribes living in the highland villages of Merak and Sakteng and having a unique dressing style depend largely on Trashigang for their food supplies. These highlanders exchange yak butter and cheese here for corn, rice, salt, and other goods during winter.

It’s a long bicycle trip of about 7 to 8 hours, mostly with rapid descents and interminable bends to Trashigang.

Initially, though, we’ll ascend 20 kilometres from Mongar to get to the high Kori La Pass (2400 metres). Fluttering prayer flags, a wall with sacred inscriptions, and a structure having countless butter lamps define Kori La. While cycling along the pass, you have a good chance of spotting great Indian hornbills in its surrounding forest.

After Kori La, our route descends rapidly amid cornfields and banana plantations. We ride about 10 kilometres before arriving at the starting point of the well-known “Yadi Loops”. These circuitous hairpin bends beyond Yadi village (1500 metres) are surrounded by a beautiful forest of chir pine trees and lemongrass. We ride 30 kilometres along the interminable switchbacks before crossing the Sheri River on a bridge. The altitude at this point is 600 metres.

After a dramatic descent of nearly 1850 metres from the Kori La Pass, we pedal at leisure alongside the Gamri River. Then, finally, we complete our arduous trip with a steep 10-kilometre ascent to Trashigang.

Today we’ll bike 180 kilometres from Trashigang to SamdrupJhonkar, the last destination of our Bhutan visit.SamdrupJhonkar is Bhutan’s oldest town and borders Assam. It’s a 6-hour bicycle trip to this south-eastern border town, along the southern highway.

Shortly after exiting Trashigang, we pedal for 25 kilometres on a winding path amid terraced fields up to the town of Kanglung (1870 metres).  This 45-minute ride to Kanglung also takes us to Sherubtse College, Bhutan’s first accredited academic institute. Let’s walk around its extensive campus in Kanglung’s scenic setting.

Now we continue riding uphill and cross the steep Yongphu La Pass (2190 metres) inside another valley, taking in superb views all along. In the valley, our route winds down a bit towards Gumchu village. Nearby is the valley town of Khaling up above River DrangmeChhu. This lush green hamlet is home to a large school for disabled students.

Just 3 kilometres beyond Khaling, we can visit the National Handloom Development Project. The National Women’s Association of Bhutan (NWAB) runs it, contracting out weaving to nearly 200 village women. They provide cotton threads on credit, and the women then return the woven cloth that’s put up for sale in several towns of Bhutan.

Our path ahead of the handloom company covers tiny villages, farms and crosses Kharung La Pass at 2350 metres. After the pass, there’s a brief descent, then we immediately ascend and cross one more pass at 2430 metres. We ride along with twists and bends, crossing ridges and gorges until we reach the pleasant hill town of Wamrong (2130 metres).

Then we pedal down approximately 20 kilometres (45 minutes) amid small hamlets to Pemagatshel Junction. We continue southwards on a steep, cliff-cut road known as MenlongBrak and then descend sharply till Narphung village. After crossing the ridge, we ascend up to 1920 metres. Then another sharp descent will take us to Deothang village (800metres). It’s totally a 2-hour ride from Pemagatshel Junction to this village. A large army camp controls Deothang, which has few shops and is home to road workers.

From Deothang, we ride down for another thirty minutes to cover the final 18 kilometres to the bottom of the valley. We enter the scenic town of SamdrupJongkhar through a dense thicket of sal and teak trees.

On the way to our hotel, i.e. on the last leg of our Bhutan travel, we can shop for souvenirs in one of SamdrupJongkhar’s markets.

Finally, it’s time to say goodbye to the Happiness Kingdom. This morning, after a three-hour drive, we reach Guwahati in Assam. From Guwahati airport, we check-in for our flight to Delhi.

We hope you’ll treasure every moment of your bicycle tour in amazing Bhutan. We’ll happily take you on another one on your next Bhutan visit. Excitement guaranteed!